Then, when I received my scan from the lab, I worked on it again and it looked something like this:įrom there, I created a preset that I could apply to future captures of Kodak Portra 160 negatives. The first time I digitized a negative, I created the following positive image out of it: Once you get your digital file from the lab, digitize your file with your setup, and try to color match you picture to what the lab sent you. Now, if you want to get perfect color correction, something very similar to what you would benefit from a lab scan, I would recommend you to send one picture to a lab from each film stock you are using. You could decide to go for something rather neutral:īut because we shot a color film, doesn’t mean we have to use it as a color picture: Getting Lab Quality Color CorrectionĪs we shot the negative in raw, the correction can almost be pushed as far you’d like to. Before yelling at your computer because it doesn’t do what you ask for, be sure to try to push or pull the slider to the other side and see if that achieves what you are looking for. For example, pushing the exposure will give you a darker positive image, while pulling it will yield a brighter picture. But now we have a positive image that we can edit just like we would on any other picture - or almost. Don’t forget your raw file is a negative, so some sliders will work the other way around than what you are used too. Obviously, it still doesn’t look quite perfect.
So by simply picking from the border of the film with my white balance color picker, the blueish cast should mostly be corrected as you can see here: Including the border of my film in my scans finds its reason here: it gives me a neutral area to sample my white point from.
Let’s bring our white balance tool and select the white balance picker (press "w" on your keyboard to access it quickly). But if you do have a color cast like I do, don’t worry, there is an easy fix, and it will work no matter what your current positive looks like. Depending on the film, the chemical process, and the scanning gear you are using, you might have a different color shift than blue or perhaps none at all. In both cases, my negative ends up with a noticeably strong blue color cast.
APPLE IMAGE CAPTURE NEGATIVES SOFTWARE
If you are working with a software that doesn’t have levels, you can do exactly the same by inverting the RGB curve like so:Īs you can see, curves and levels can achieve the same result. To make it a positive, we want to invert that and indicate to Capture One that the black point has a value of 255 (white) and the white is 0 (black). In a negative picture, the black point is actually white and the white point is black.
In Capture One, open your Levels tool (Window > Create Floating Tool > Levels). Turning a Negative Into a Positive Using Levels Be sure to try both Capture One and your current photo editing software of choice, and see for yourself what’s best for you. With that being said, the method shown in this article, and video above, can be used in any app that offers either a curves or levels tool.
APPLE IMAGE CAPTURE NEGATIVES HOW TO
However, that article wouldn’t have been complete without explaining how to convert the scanned analog picture to a positive image. Last week I showed you how you can use just a DSLR and a few accessories to digitize your negatives.
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